We’ve spotted some of Asia’s top designers to look out for during Fashion Week
This season, we can really see more Asian fashion designers quickly entering the international fashion scene, some who’ve already climbed the ladder of fame to international fashion weeks while others who are just starting to peek into the complex cut throat industry.
SHIATZY CHEN PFWProbably one of my favorite shows during PFW, not just because it was presented at the magnificent Grand Palais, or because one of the highest paid super models of the year, Karlie Kloss, showed up in a ruffled lace blouse and tight corset showcasing her topmodel assets beside one of fashions most snobby icons, Carine Roitfeld, but because of the the holistic theme and metallic glass decor recreating the french 1920’s Art Deco Era mixed with some Spanish inspired influence from the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.
The show was really impeccable from the slash silver under-lining on the models faces to the mini embroided chinese inspired bags and the heeled laced up shoes. The collection resonated with the 1920’s era with an elegant Asian flair where she emphasized with ultra sleek straight or crooked lines and mixing it with a « girl meets boy » aesthetic. White was the common denominator of the collection with a significant mix of metallic materials where Chen added splashes of colors every now and then with yellow, red, blue and pink being the majority.
UMA WANG MFW
Exposing Military romance through her key androgynous look, Uma creates oversized forms with earth pallets strongly reflecting her utilitarian philosophy. This time, forms or tribalism and Japanese influencer were also presented.
Heaven Gaia PFW
Chinese designer, Ying Xiong, created a very elaborate collection (showcasing over 4-5 of her collections in one show) which was highly emblematic of China’s traditional craftsmanship and heritage; dyed silk, traditional Suzhou embroideries, silk tapestry and hand-painted motifs along with embellishments on gowns and separates with details like Mandarin collars, covered button fastenings to even white porcelain tiles on the dresses and ink painted motives.
Lots of metallic and flash yellow sunshine outfits. Suits are a big comeback in every color ( as long as it’s a total monochrome look). The flash colors are mixed with destroyed ruffles and elongated sleeves. The outfits are mixed with yellow, blue and white pvc in yourface boots. Yellow is played with and paired with steal colors, blue, black, zippers and much more. Mysteriously aggressive with a power stricken ora of boldness resonated in the room.
ANDREW GN PFW
Like WWD states, “Andrew GN collections are often history lessons in pretty disguise”. Indeed this year, the designer took us though French history of the post revolution slash victorian era mixed with 80’s punk, something that pronounced a strong rebellion towards society. Moreover, Gn, “a self confessed denim virgin”, created extraordinary and flamboyant pieces of denim this season which was quite a surprised when he opened his show with full on denim attire going from high collared kimono like dress to cropped jackets with studded sleeves and long ruffled mermaid skirts in swirling panels combined with raw edge finishes for the details. 18th century frilly floral dresses and silk gowns there after followed.
Annakiki’s presentation was really interesting and spot hit on the current trends of today’s modern consumerism and fight for the future of sustainability. Entering the preview her collections were wrapped in large plastic vacuumed sealed bags ( like if we’d saran wrap meat and veggies). Her thoughts of placing the collections in this type of environment was a reflection of today’s pure consumerism, hence the concept of Revival through Fashion Preservation. In an almost black white and hint of red collection, visual effects through playing with stripes and structure were created creating her iconic and refreshed “ Annakiki Look”; sports and street mixed with retro inspired influences.
Although, it’s the designers first preview international preview in Milan, there was this type of “Sita Abellan” street style underground groupie formed in a line uberly enthusiastic to meet the designer. I was shocked by the fact that so many western bloggers/fans already knew about her and are really keen on the movement of emerging Chinese designers.