DAMIR DOMA MFW AW16/17 | MASTER of ANTI-Fashion
Croatian designer Damir Doma showcased his relocated-to-Milan show this year where his androgynous designs are played with a clear mixture of balanced proportion, layers, minimalistic aesthetics, and rough edges.
Photo by Yanie D
Entering the white industrial-like venue, everything was dim dark with high-rise ceilings and steel plates giving out a clean but austere ambience, I guess reflecting the artistic and architectural inspiration of the brand’s DNA.
Video by Yanie D
Doma’s style is iconic for being oversized and asymmetrical, playing with genders of sihouettes that are not feminine nor overly masculine. Staying true to his brand DNA by being pure and minimalist, refusing any kinds of exaggerated elaboration or colors, seemed like refreshing breath of fresh air in contrast to exaggerated voluminous silhouettes, overly done faded trends and commercially loud colors.
Doma shows crisp and raw designs that are both functional and pragmatic. Highly masculine, deconstructed, and tense in form, Doma plays with different textures and draping to express his creativity and theme of “Nature Facing Extinction”; reminding us of how strong but utterly raw and fragile our world is in a weirdly serene way.
Photo by JUNGLAM
Darkest of Black, bone white, olive green, oyster grey, cocoa and hints of pale rose are the key protagonists of the collection.
The make-up was almost a tiered like “makeup no makeup” look, no contouring or heavy sculpting, no blush strokes, but simple refrainment to matt makeup using mostly brown taupe and light brown shades for the eyeshadow and prune colored balms for the lips.
Photo by Junglam
A timeworn effect is created with finishing’s that are contrastingly delicate and brutal; raw wool, roll neck sweaters and long ribbed norm core dresses pierced with steel nose rings, inside out thick ribbed cashmere knits, raw seems framing extra wide trousers and roughly finished jacquard derbies edged in raw wool walk the runway.
Photos courtesy of Camera Moda Milano
“I feel it’s a quite confusing period not just in terms of design, but in terms of business and in terms now of what’s going on, for me, it was easier to look into myself and try to calm down, and point out the things that make my work different from others,” Doma says
“His show was a reminder that a whisper is sometimes louder than a shout.” ( source WWD)