INSIDES ON THIS SEASONS MFW
Running around Milan along with the crazy media fashion flocks, this seasons SS1617 was all about going back into the roaring 80’s, minimalism era or Victorian goth pop.
DSQUARED2 flowered us with supermodels fantasy after the show celebrating in a champagne shower style going from iconic Anna Cleveland, Marjan Jonkman, Fernanda Hin Lin Ly, Molly Bair, and more. The collection was filled of high and lows which were a playful representation of their personal character; a look of sequined ripped jeans, high embellishment with a tie-die effect paired with glamorous Swarovski sprinkled tops and leopard printed or satin puffed sleeves creating an extreme triangle silhouette.
Going backstage we were crowded with the <it> girls and bloggers groups that were in a one big pack hovering around the champagne showered backdrop with flamboyant designer duo Dean and Dan Caten and their key selected models to join in on the final shoot and interview with Vogue Italy. Over big flashing lights, cameras and hundreds of pushy media/cameraman who are in adrenaline to take the ultimate media pic, I squeeze my way in to get the closest shot, “Pam Click” and here it is taken from my IPhone 6.
Meanwhile, Gabriele Colangelo really amazed us with its new SS collection that combined deconstruction of materials with diverse and beautiful textures almost creating a 3D effect for modern but timeless elegance.
Ermanno Scervino always keeping its core value of “beauty before all and above all”. SS17 was full of romanticism and femininity that combined the present, past and future.
Infinite side swept soft locks, rosy cheeks, and cherry balm lips struck my eyes instantly as the models appeared dressed in organza, tulle dresses, pleated lace and all white suits.
As soon as I entered the venue I was brought by the Chinese press agents who took me directly to my seat; the Chinese area located right beside the entry of the models runway entrance, probably the worst seats, nevertheless 2 Chinese celebs as well as Editor in Chief of Vogue China, Angelica Cheung were all sitting there as well in anticipation to viewing the labels new collection. The same seats dedicated to “Chinese press” were assigned throughout most of the shows in Milan while western media took the center middle of the row and western bloggers taking the opposite center middle or closer to the cameramen in order to keep a politically close distance from the key editor in chiefs.
For Diesel Black Gold, a show that is always very early in the morning and located in an industrial space in Milan (Via Valtellina) with horrible for morning traffic, I accidently ended up backstage in the desperate need to find a washroom in the consequence of drinking too much MATE MATE natural energizer tea that morning.
This morning I found myself in a flood of models dressed in hues of creams, nudes and black on the scene that seem to have been trained to simultaneously pose for 50-60 gritty macho masculine cameramen who kept screaming “Look here, turn, Beautiful, Pose to the left/right etc.”, while getting their hair done, having last minute restyling and hairstylists retouches on the mini 90’s buns, while the makeup artists were covering patches of bruises or imperfections on the models legs and arms 10 min before the show.
“For hair an makeup, its extremely hierarchal, almost a cast. We get chosen often at last minute for the gig and many of us are not allowed to touch or approach the super models , according to our status and “chief leader” we are assigned to specific posts. Right now, lets just say I’m not at the top of the chain, it’s really cruesome work sometimes” says a hairstylist for Ermanno Scervino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bottega Venetta and more during this seasons MFW.
A nice thing of being backstage are not only the spontaneous natural photos that you get when models are not 100% on guard (meaning on the runway), but also allowing you to see the makeup, details and clothing up close and personally, something that you can usually do only if you do showroom bookings or attend the re-see 2 days later.
It seemed like some industrial romanticism from the past where military vintage combined with combat boots created a tough look, but was then softened out with flirty ruffled cotton baby doll dresses, broderie and laced up details on the apparel and nude pallets to portray the labels vision of urban femininity, in other words I guess it was very “Diesel”.
In contrast, Cristiano Burani’s backstage pass was more relaxed and intimate where it went under the theme of the “I Love You” collection showcasing a sunshine colors, youth and evoking the energy of freedom and sports allure mixing the 80’s 90’s and present together. It reminded me of some Californian surfer nostalgia mixed with some urban disco vibes.
Cristiano Burani Backstage
For the presentations, there was a mass of them going from Jimmy Choo’s botanical inspired collection, Eleventy creating new shapes and textiles for the new travelling customer seeking for quality and sustainability, Hogan launching an «after party » extravaganza with special guest supermodel Sara Sampaio to represent the new #Hogan86, while Chiara Ferragni launched her new collection through a garden party under the theme of #findmeinwonderland. Ferragni showcased a selection of glittery ballerinas, thigh high boots combining a Texan feel with elements of the 90’s and now.
HOGAN AND SARA SAMPAIO
Chiara Ferragni SS Collection
Brunello Cucinelli did a semi intimate dinner in a beautiful palace in the center of Milan showcasing a very luxurious but “on the down low” collection with hefty hefty price tags. Around an evening with Brunello, the founder himself, his wife and daughters, he showcased the collection emphasizing on family business and how he remains most of the time at Solomeo. Something very inspiring about this is not only the collection in itself but the whole aura around the event ; people just love the brand and what it stands for, I can really feel it, even speaking to many Italians in and out of the fashion industry they all said the same thing ‘ I’d like to work for Brunello Cucinelli, an ethical company who treats their employees and community with the uttermost respect, very hard to find in today’s cut throat economy’ they told me.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Preview
To conclude, MFW whether it was backstage, on the scene or on the streets, it was filled with dynamism, luxury, craftsmanship, emerging talent and the Italian houses seeking to keep its heritage or renew themselves with balance in the times where social media, bloggers/ IT girls, racing timeline against who can buy the quickest trends on the runway predominate our modern consumer behaviour.
Article created for MODERN LADY Print
Cover Photo by Ivan Grianti– Arthur Arbesser