Insights on SS17 top 4 International Fashion Weeks
Immersing ourselves into this spring summers RTW top 4 international fashion weeks with NYC, London, Milan, and Paris we’ve experienced a real flow of roller coaster fashion heaven where were showing you the top highlights across all four fashion capitals.
Heaven Gaia SS Show Paris- Photo taken from my Iphone
NEW YORK CITY
Where commercial street success was probably born, worth 98 billion dollars in New York alone, NYC kept giving us “realistically” great shows of recognized designer brands that kept being influenced from street-style to runway shows as well as moving into the fast trends of the hot <ready to wear right away>, see now buy now.
Hood by Air
Straw basket handbags, retro vibes, crisp white/blue shirts, track pants, track suits, velvet, leisurewear, high rise pants, pink everything, and dresses paired with T-shirts were both spotted on the streets and runway. DNKY, Alxander Wang X Adidas, Hood by Air amongst many other showcases a form of futuristic street style attitude of tracksuits, zippered jumpsuits, pinstripe tailoring, and active wear elements.
However we also saw that for this spring summer many labels starting to derive from the runway going towards previews/ presentations instead for buyers and editors leaving extra room for new emerging designers to take the pedestal. Derek Lam, 10 Crosby by Derek Lam as well as Calvin Klein and the such did not show this season. “I think this season the news was all about emerging talent. Monse and Sies Marjan are the two breaking out stars. They are featuring intricate details ”says Wenqi Wu, NYC based women’s wear Designer.
I think New York fashion week is more daring in terms of creating shows geared for both media purposes and commercial returnability, pioneers of the “see now buy now” concept, many brands such as Michael Kors have also been experimenting with robots and drones during their shows, as well as VR to reach out to the consumer level and understand more in depth on how to engage with them more in the future. Moreover, optimizing social media return to its max, #tommyXgigi was a social media and financial hit turning the runway into an entertainment carnival while leveraging on Gigi’s +22 million wallets-I mean instafan base- to showcase their see now buy now collection.
The city of young fresh talent, provocation, and audacity. London gave us a large pool of fresh and new emerging designer brands that came from all over the world. As well as seeing the traditional punk culture and strong contrast of the modern English style, we also saw a significant focus on exaggerated proportions, long loose silhouettes dominating asymmetric sleeves or oversized cuffs that was often mixed with sports attire and accessories, examples are Edeline Lee, Dumpty, and Palmer//Harding. In contrast, a strong sense of maximalism, embellishments and hot bright colors freshly moved the runway with promising designers such as Emilio de la Morena, Roberta Einer, Sophia Webster, Mary Benson and more, check them out.
J JS LEE
MFW, always a step ahead in terms of trends that are only to be later confirmed in Paris, Milan gave us a breeze of diversity this season going from DSQUARED2’s exaggerated Victorian culture mixed with a pop goth era, fur /preppy sports luxe revamp with Simonetta Ravizza, sharp geometric lines and boy meets girl shapes mixing color contrasts with Arthur Arbesser to going into pale nudes and whites combined into a tough look with Diesel Black Gold.
Diesel Black Gold Backstage
Nevertheless, femininity and romance continues to be very important where Ermanno Scervino and Gabriele Colangelo played this role in very different ways, Scervino through lace, satin, and chiffon while Colangelo showcased the aspect of soft fluid deconstruction with a variety of rich textures really creating an aww of timeless elegance.
This year most an unusually high presence of Chinese media was gathered in flocks at the shows, going from top Chinese celebs to editor in chiefs of first tier magazines where we still all sat in probably the most unflattering areas of the shows (the entrance of the shows). Western Bloggers took a strong stance this season where many of them started to grace on the front covers of GRAZIA , TUSTYLE and other Italian gossip magazines , sitting in middle front row with always a distance to leave between Vogue Italia Chief Editor, Franca Sozzani and them to distinguish clearly the importance of media versus bloggers. At night, apart from the usual cocktails and after parties, we often see in Italy’s political parties and fashion giants such as Donatella Versace often seen dining together by press making TV headlines and gossip.
What most runways had in common was an obvious pop of color for this SS going into the eras of the 80’s and 90’s such as Aigner and Antonio Marras bringing us into funk/jazz and rock n roll. Compared to the previous years I also saw major improvement with the more renown but independent designers who are competing with the global giants, Laura Biagiotti and Mila Schon for example.
In contrast, a strong focus on geometry and minimalism was shown with designers such as Jil Sander emphasizing on shoulder volume and cinching the waist, large tailored suits and oversized men’s shirts to Lucio Vanotti and Giada creating minimal structures and loose fits with natural tones.
Paris Fashion week is known for having one of the most packed schedules out of all the top 4 fashion weeks with a strong focus on giant historical fashion houses such as Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Celine, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Givenchy and the likes attracting top supermodels and celebs getting caught sitting on front row, and its not for nothing, Paris keeps on surprising us by pushing fashion to its limits whether it’s mixing the past with the future or it being too idealist, here fashion continues to dream seeming to ignore the pressure that fast fashion has on the industry today. Victorian punk, pure fantasy, 80’s glamor, 70’s disco, 80’s mixed with sci-fi sports glam seemed to re-appear often.
Some key trends that took place was Dior’s revamped collection going into a more street style direction which included elements of fencing, feminism, and boxing. For the first time in 70 years, we can say the Maison drastically revamped its collection where we saw heavily logoed J’aDior branded boxers peeking out and matched with flowing floor – length transparent chiffon skirts decorated with bats, flies and stars and low-cut bustiers paired with metallic tarot accessories.
Louis Vuitton showcased their new oversized and un-functional iPhone cases mimicking their LV trunks creating huge hype amongst media who were hovering around the re-see preview trying to snatch a peek of the new LVphone cases. I believe they are forecasted to be the “It” accessories of the season as well as their mini trunk monogrammed LV bags and footwear. Also, a solid and anticipated collection of more glamorous looks took place for the spring summer collection, playing more with evening looks, glitter and metallic to still take Nicolas Ghesquières modern futuristic take on the 80’s. Usually playing with sportswear, for the past season, the designer focuses much more on luxury items and details reminding us of the more French refined and sophisticated Louis Vuitton of the past focusing on tailored sleek suits, metallic dresses, and tulle dresses.
Big hype and media criticism also revolved on Fenty X Puma with singer and fashion icon Rhianna. The collection showcased hues of powdery pink and white collection, fishnets, pearl piercings, gothic chokers, large ruffles, fans, looking like some Marie Antoinette Versailles and contemporary rap star style mashed up together. Although the collection is very “Bad Girl Riri”, it received large amounts of negative reviews from media similar to Kanye’s Yeezy collection. Nevertheless, I believe that it will work in terms of a consumer scale point of view.
Fenty X Puma – Photo sourced from the Internet
Around a more intimate but grand show in Paris, Vionnet showcased a beautiful and elegant collection of layered pieces coming in a degradation of colors, it was a true work of artisanship taking us back into a “slow fashion” environment. They played with long maxi lengths, pleats and chiffon creating loose evening attire, oversized but elegant cream colored double breasted tailored suits as well as mixing the outfits with denim to create a more casual look.
Vionnet-– Photo sourced from the Internet
Kenzo’s youth culture pop provocateurs shocked us at the entrance of their show with still life models in literally all shapes and sizes completely naked-seeming as statues. With a distinct call to the flamboyant 80’s disco era and metallic chic, Kenzo’s SS collection showcased a wild variety of shimmering party dresses, extra large loop earrings and an extravaganza of giant paillettes, silver, gold and of course exuberant makeup paired with rainbow nails.
To finalize, although I feel that Paris right now is not the safest place, I feel it still is the most flamboyant of fashion weeks out of them all, not only for their shows, the historical Maisons, the amazing locations which literally put you in a dream, but also for the quality of street styles mix n match on the streets, and A-listers attending creating more in-depth content and insight.
Article created for Modern Lady China