A personal thought on the MFW Experience, SS17
To change things a bit, today I’ve decided to give you a more personal view point on my experience during MFW. Here it goes…
I think the pre-fashion week organization is the funniest part, as it may look absolutely ridiculous for people who are not in the industry (cough cough the boyfriend), as he enters the apartment boggled at the site of seeing 60 different outfits scattered on the floor, carefully evaluated in order to get ready for the fashion week marathon.
Jil Sander MFW- TheMarginalist Instagram
But yes, MFW, its about who sits where, who gets shot, who gets seen ( and with who). An industry of superficial egoism and affiliation that can go above all, at a certain moment in time， is how one could potentially define it.
To see and be seen is part of the game, however I do believe there’s also that authentic thrive and thirst for fashion entertainment that’s a strong drive amongst all during fashion week. A hub where worldwide fashion professionals slash influencers come together in order to celebrate the new evolution of trends in the fashion industry. In a way, it can be seen as quite primal when you really think of it, similar to guys who are all hyped up on an overdose of testosterone to so see the world cup, we are arguably hyped up on vanity and the novelty of beautiful things. As funny as it may sound to you, I think it’s the reality for some.
Something that is generally created during the bigger shows/brands are the “politically diplomatic” divided rows and sections, Vogue US beside western Celebs ( not bloggers), It girls and Top (western) influencers sitting in a compact group usually at the end of the row , right beside the photographers, and then there is the Chinese Media all regrouped in the pre-dedicated front “asia-section” of the show ( my opinion, the worst seats, as the view and angle of each look is too short and the Iphone photos don’t turn out that good) and so forth.
But, before the show is the backstage anticipation, probably my favorite moment as you get to see the collection before everyone else in a more up close and intimate way; the details, cutting structure and overall vibe of the look, from a beauty and make up perspective as well. Models and total looks all of a sudden become more personal and natural, whilst the usual rude impatient camera men (usually dressed in black, leather jackets, with old off-white laced up sneakers) come as close as they can to their reserved backstage section, pushing other camera man, in order to get the better shot, as they simultaneously shout and slur in Italian “ Turn here! here here! LeFT, RIGHT, That’s GOOD”.
Apart from the shows itself during MFW, is the chosen architecture, lavish gardens, and buildings that the shows take place in; A rich variety of Milanese bourgeois/aristocratic history that is showcased in some of Milans best palaces telling a story in themselves. Probably one of my favorite places this season was Gabriele Colangelo’s venue which took place at the Visconti palace beside San Babila, an amazing palace embellished with historical painted drawings on the walls, I remember half focusing on the collection and most of the other time at the building artistic embellishments.
In terms of general trends we saw much more Chinese models walking the runway, regardless of the designers being emerging, niche or global luxury brands. There was also a particularly strong attention on emerging Chinese designers rising on a pedestal, from Annakiki presenting her preview to JINNN and White Milano showcasing a reserved area for Chinese Designers only ( in collaboration with LuisaViaRoma), WHITEEast. I also recently received the latest schedule of MFW where we are planning to see Angel Chen, AnnaKiki, Ricostru, and other potential Chinese / Asian designers entering for their first time on the official MFW calendar showcasing their collections to worldwide international press. Indeed, a shift on Asia is here to come for 2017.
Moreover, feminism, extraverted opulence, the complex 80’s spirit, oversized earrings, blinged up flauntness, larger than life ruffles and shimmery materials, and an exaggeration of bedazzled Victorian jackets were key things that seem to come over and over again during the shows. Needless to say this seasons trend is a bit confusing, but it also potentially reflects the provoking emotions and liberalism of what we’ve face in 2016, Brexit, Trump, New political Powers rising, and shifting in Movement creates uncertainty.
FURLA PREVIEW MFW
On a more light hearted and view point, this season, I also got the opportunity to collaborate with Marie Claire Italia on their early morning Nike Yoga session on Corso Como. As much as I thought I was going to pass out in the midst of probably the most hectic day, this very yoga session was a serious no joke power booster taught by one of Nikes best Anti-Gravity Yoga Masters, Sayonara Motta.
But sometimes we don’t always have the opportunity of getting natural power boosters.
Most of my days consist of the usual pre-set 4-6 alarms buzzing, the daily double espressos and hurrying to get to the first show (usually the most promising ones), running around trying to find a proper outfit, smudging my waterproof eyeliner by accident ( and trying to compensate and save time by applying more makeup to cover) as soon as I end up leaving the apartment I realize that I look like a drag queen; huge thigh high platforms, a royal blue velvet skirt that was way too short for the usual 9am officer workers to look at, and an overdose of makeup gone wrong, and here I am starting the day and ready to go forward (ahh at least I brought my Ferragamo glasses to cover I say to myself re-insured, shit I forgot them in the other purse….).
But somehow at the end of the day, everything cools down. Right before dawn at around 3-4 pm when the sun starts setting with beautiful natural lighting we usually start the streetstyling sessions with my photographer, Ivan Grianti ( also L’Officielle Japan Photographer), after that we go on covering more shows running around the city doing interviews, backstage passes and finalize the day with after parties such as MTV, Coca Cola, Hogan etc. packed with “off duty” super models like Sampaio and Ambrosio to Fashions new Insta influencers such as Xenia, Chiara, Manfield and more.
Around a marathon of running around from 8am -2 am in the morning with a serious lack of food and losing 5-10 pounds, the last day of MFW is the indulgence day, at around 10:30 pm some friends and I ended up at Corso Buenos Aires at the only “seriously” Chinese authentic food ( where they waiters also speak almost-only Chinese and broken Italian), we also happened to meet most of Beijings / Shanghai’s fashion media , binging together under one small cramped room and grateful for the break we have while getting mentally prepared for tomorrow mornings next stop, PFW.