MFW F/W1617 Interview With UMA WANG
“China’s breakout design star, championed by Vogue China, her textural approach to form and fabric have won her widespread acclaim and acceptance.” BOF
Spotted early on the international scene and named by Vogue Italia as one of their up-and-coming designer’s to watch for her contemporary draped designs and innovative pairing of textured fabrics and highly supported by Vogue China (Angelica Cheung), Uma Wang showcases her new FW16/17 collection beside the iconic Duomo in Milan.
Always sticking to her true DNA, this winter, Uma Wang takes us on a military and romantic journey. Diving right into the Renaissance period, Wang bring out the simplicity of utilitarian clothing and combines them with thick heavy Bordeaux pinstripes, heavy wool and large knitwear with asymmetric cuts. Brocades of rich silk with raised patterns in silver and gold created a royal contrast while the collars and wide–cut trousers in created from military structures and fabrics also gave a tougher and hostile look to the collection. However romanticism was presented through silk gowns, wide skirts and mixtures of pink, red, gold, and brown hues balanced the collection softening the overall tones and looks.
Uma Wang tells us that a sustainable growth to becoming a respected international Chinese designer over time is key where consistency and credibility is the designers strength. Because of her international presence, many global and local boutiques, buyers and e-tailors are seeking to buy her key collection pieces.
Speaking with Wang, she explains to us her inspiration behind this season’s collection.
Who would be UMA Wang’s ideal muse to represent the brand?
I don’t have any particular muse. I design for self-confident women who want to be unique.
Core inspiration behind this seasons collection?
For AW 2016, Uma Wang explores a very physical relation between a romantic emotion and a military feel. Cracked, felted, polished and waxed, the fabrics evolve between the poetry and the preciousness of Renaissance patterns and between the honesty and simplicity of utilitarian clothes. Exploring the codification of Romanticism and the masculine beauty of the military wardrobe, the collection creates a space where power and fragility stand as one.
2.What is your challenge of being a Chinese Designer based in Europe?
I personally hate long time flights, this is my biggest challenge at the moment but I can really enjoy my time in Europe, it is always very productive and fulfilling
3. Is there a new global trend your generally seeing being a Chinese Fashion Designer piercing in the international global fashion marketplace? I never follow the trend, I prefer to follow my heart!
4. How are the Chinese consumers relating to your collections? Are you seeing more Chinese or western consumers, is there s significant preference in certain products/cuts/structures?
Chinese consumers like Uma Wang products a lot and I can see the same reaction for the westerners, it is a real pleasure to see that people all over the world love to wear my garments independently of their culture and historical background; this is exactly how I expected it to be in create something that is beyond the limit of a specific time and place.
All photos taken by Mattia Greghi
Article created for CITY WEEKEND SHANGHAI