Special Make Up Insider: The right makeup look for your face
An in depth interview with professional makeup artist at the Makeup Forever Academy in Shanghai. Getting that right look for your face.
Working with several makeup artists during shootings, I had the opportunity of collaborating and interviewing Cristina Bodea, makeup artist and professor at the Makeup Forever Academy in Shanghai, where she gives us an insider perspective on the technicalities of fashion makeup for the east versus the west, this seasons makeup trends to look out for as well as her favorite makeup muses of all time.
Makeup: Cristina Bodea, photo by Hugh O’Malley, wearing Guess
Make Up Clashes: Asian vs Western
“Passion for makeup is really important in order to get into this industry. I knew I had this interest within me since a very young age and decided to pursue my career in a more intensive way in the makeup industry.” says Bodea during our early makeup session before the shooting.
Curious, I asked Bodea’s opinion on the large advantages western women have over Asian, in terms of the richer varieties of make-up they can create and how Asian women can also achieve deeper effects using makeup. She surprisingly didn’t agree, “I think that one of the most ironic things of doing make up, particularly in China, is that “the grass is always greener on the other side”, many western models desire to have Asian skin and beautiful exotic single lid eyes, whilst Asian models hope to have a more 3D like face. There are always advantages an d disadvantages of working with western versus Asian skin, for example, the Asian skin is very soft and tight whilst for us we are more prone to have baggier skin where it can get tricky to apply foundation as it gets in the creases creating an uneven look. In contrast, western women usually have ample eyelashes where for most looks we usually apply strong fake lashes for Asian women. However, Asian lips are much more plumpier and balanced, for us in contrast the upper lip is usually much thinner than the lower one in general. These are only some examples of the pros and cons we all have.” she laughs.
Makeup: Cristina Bodea, Photo by Hugh O’Malley, wearing AFL
“I think contouring in general is also something that can help create a more 3D look for the Asian face and is also very popular on a global level. For the Asian face, feel free to over accentuate the contouring compared to the western women. The most basic-easy to do contouring is the cheekbones; first feel and see the structure of your cheek bone (as we’re all different) and create shadow (low lighting) right under the cheek bone with two fingers away from your nose, thereafter highlight on the cheekbone to create a contrast. For me this is probably the most useful thing to do in a go.
Of course, we can do the full contouring to shape the face creating the idealized oval face structure. When you look at a person’s face, the highest areas/points of the face usually needs to be highlighted whereas the lowlight is created in the depth areas of the face.” she adds.
Makeup: Cristina Bodea
Remember, before wearing heavy makeup for shooting, make sure to hydrate your skin beforehand in order to create an optimal look. Either through using a mask before bedtime, or natural honey and/or coconut oil DIY, I used Nerium creams that’s night beforehand.
Makeup/hair: Cristina Bodea
For Bodea, she also get ready for the concept creation of runway makeup from the initial direction, inspiration to the creation; she refers it as designers looking into old archives of research in order to anticipate the next seasons latest trends whilst using the latest makeup technology or products in order to get the best results.
“Its applying all the knowledge and tools as a makeup artist in order to be professional with regards to the brands/clients shooting. For example, High Definition makeup, it’s a line that Makeup Forever (recently) launched that creates dramatic results when showcased on TV or camera, as the contents of the products are created of small micro-particles giving you a second skin look on camera, but if you use it for daily wear it can appear dry-flaky giving off an un –natural effect. HD is a strong professional makeup tool that really makes a big difference for TV industry purposes.”
Makeup/hair: Cristina Bodea
Natural looks-nude looks, very mat or shiny and fresh looks are key for this seasons runway trends.
For Asia its quite special as it has a lot of influence with the Korean market, especially the eyebrows that are very straight and the lips which are going into a very natural and soft pink look. The trend overall is going as natural as possible. Even for the eyebrows, we’re going into more natural and thick shapes.
For Fashion shows many of them are using a lot of lines, creating their own design on the faces, it’s a lot about abstraction create and add special elements in alignment with the symmetry of the face whilst combining a makeup no-makeup adding specific key elements.
Makeup/hair: Cristina Bodea
Research and Trends
I love doing research and its important to know the history of makeup in order to understand more in depth the background of why we wear makeup. I’m reading FACE PAINT:The story of Makeup, by Lisa Eldridge, where white , black and red are the only 3 types of colours found in makeup history. For example, white comes from the Geisha as well as the Victorians, where even today in 2017 Asian women still use whitening products in order to showcase status, and this goes back from ancient history fundamentals. However for us (the west) , the more we’re tanned the more toned we believe to be. When we look at fashion, we also need to understand the different eras of makeup in order to serve fashion brands effectively.
For me the most prominent figures that changes makeup history are predominately the muses who wear the makeup, such as Cleopatra/ Nefertiti synonymous with ancient beauty, Amy Winehouse creating a predominating iconic vintage look, Elizabeth Tyler her glamour is still iconic and relevant today, her influence is often seen in fashion and beauty magazines etc. The muse always has her own idea on the look she wants where it’s up to the artist to create and make this look come to effect.
Pursuing a career in Makeup:
“I think it’s about believing in yourself and going for it. As a professor, looking from my experience, A lot of people have superficial ideals of what a makeup artist is, but then when they enter the courses, the way we train and study goes really deep, so some people in the industry give up. I do believe you need to have the sense of art and colour which is innate, this no one can teach you. Makeup school simply teaches you techniques but no one can give you that special instinct of colours, how to effectively combine the colours for people with different skin tones, eye colour, hair colour, face shape etc. Because no one is the same, the combination of the human and art sense becomes key to generating good results.
Some believe that applying makeup through digital processes and digital algorithms is currently possible. I don’t believe in this as there are also the human feelings, the artistic touch for makeup and how to apply the products on each person making its currently irreplaceable for machine usage. Also, the products we’re using can be used in very different ways; Lipstick can be used for eyeshadow and even blush and vice versa, knowing how to use products, apply, and manipulate them in different ways to get the best use out of them.” concludes Bodea.
Makeup: Cristina Bodea, Photos by Hugh O’Malley, wearing AFL
What’s in your bag now?
“Giorgio Armani Luminous silk Foundation, Make Up For Ever cream blush, L’Oréal Voluminous mascara and Maybelline Super Curl Volume(I use two as I like to emphasize my lashes in terms of volume and length), lip gloss MAC Cremesheen Glass”
Example of eye-makeup created from lipbalm, makeup by Cindy D, Photo by Marusia Makhmutova, wearing AFL and Mahny Jewlery
Example of eye-makeup created from lipbalm, makeup by Cindy D, photo by Marusia Marusia Makhmutova, wearing Zurita and Sirloin