VIONNET PFW FW16/17
“ Simplicity is the final achievement. After one has played a vast quantity of notes and more notes, it is simplicity that emerges as the crowning reward of art.”- Frederic Chopin
In contrast to last year’s F/W, this season Creative Director, Goga Ashkenazi and Head Designer Hussein Chalayan bring us into a somber and dramatic mood where more masculine shapes, long dropped lines and elongated modern silhouettes take a sharp contrast to the feminine aspect of the collection.
The idea of instrument integration through the collection is the protagonist concept of the show where music notes take the form of spiralling long pleats, musical instruments are deconstructed turning romantic dresses into musical shapes; Large fringes symbolizing piano strings, buttoning like accordion buttons placed around the dresses and the body of accordion enrobing the back side of the models body hanging as an accessory <that could twist and revamp any look>, the collection naturally becomes a song in itself. Diverse patterns diffusing into overblown upper body volumes creating “harp like” figures with pleats and ruffles creating long slim dropped lines.
Creative collection moodboards, courtesy of Vionnet
Always staying true to the brands core DNA, materials flow around the body, effortless beautiful draping, complex pleats, transparent delicate chiffon, sheer organza, silk, jersey, crepe, and wool are shown elegantly combining masculinity and femininity together with the pure movements. Probably one of Vionnet’s strength is its mastership for contemporary asymmetry while maintaining a long draped silhouette with little embellishment added to its dresses. To its midi or maxi skirts, soft fluidity is the collections strongest point; concrete grey, light violet purple and cold shades of different blues are mixed with mustard yellow, rusted red, bronze, dark orange, black and nude pallets. Vionnet’s classic greek goddess like robes were also paired with graphic print white/black striped trousers and long chalky capes creating a refined and lightly modernized look.
Moreover, the accessories are not too overlook; absolutely amazing hand crafted rectangular shaped small handbags with gold rigid handles and detailed engraving, long gold thick necklaces placed behind the models ultra straight hair, one piece thin gold earrings, colored fur accessories and statement shoes truly create amazing “stand out” key pieces for this season.
For beauty, some models had sleeked back hair, mat tones and plumped gold lined lips. Gold metallic touches in the inner creases of the eyes are made to have a “pop” effect. However, keeping a balance look, many of the models had bold strong and even unusual traits. One of the most iconic and strongest faces that opened the Vionnet show was Anna Cleveland’s, a strange and mis-understood a-typical beauty, takes romanticism, poetry and delicacy to another level, Cleveland ( aka Daughter of legendary 70’s top model Pat) shows us how to celebrate the differences of women in all senses disregarding of time or cultures we are in. She is showcased on several of Vionnet’s show and it’s recent major campaigns.